Académie Suisse du vin

South African Winelands

Our members who plan to visit the South African winelands will read with pleasure and interest this article of our corresponding member Lilyane WESTON.

In the last decade, the South African wines have improved beyond all recognition. Exports are growing worldwide, with the UK as its number one market. In the first six months of 2001, South Africa increased its wine sales by 29%.

Wine has been made in the Cape since 1659, by the first Dutch settlers and soon afterwards by a wave of French Huguenot immigrants who brought their knowledge in viticulture and winemaking.

With the breathtaking blue-purple mountain ranges as a backdrop, the lush vineyards of the three main regions of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschoek are characterized by the thatched, white-walled gabled houses dazzling in the sun. The picturesque wine routes wind through all three regions as well as crossing the up and coming Worcester and Robertson to the east and Tulbagh, Swartland and Olifants River to the north. Some ofthe Cape‘s best wines could come from these regions that used to produce only big, alcoholic, often fortified red wines and sweet white wines. Interestingly, Danie de WET was the first to recognise the potential of the Robertson region for the production of quality white wines at a time when most estates produced fortified wines.

Because of the very dry climate, spraying is minimal compared to other wine growing regions. Danie, the guiding light of the Robertson community, started the Robertson Wine Trust to improve the quality of the region‘s wines and to promote its image. Today, on his De Wetshof estate, Danie specialises in Chardonnay. Despite its world wide popularity, Chardonnay made a late start in South Africa because of strict controls on importing new stocks into the country.

Although, winemakers usually favour traditional grape varieties, such as Cabernet and Shiraz, the indigenous Pinotage promises to become a classic. South Africa‘s own grape variety Pinotage was created in 1920 by crossing Cinsaut (then known as Hermitage) with Pinot Noir.

Yet, far more white grapes (70%) are produced in South Africa than red. Chenin Blanc, a grape that represents almost a quarter of the planted area, needs to be pampered to produce quality wines. Low yield and the right location allowing a long ripening season to develop its complexity, yet retain enough acidity to balance the ripe fruit, contribute to the production of interesting wines. Increasingly, producers concentrate on quality Chenin Blanc; the recently formed Chenin Blanc association is concentrating in raising the grape‘s image. After all, it is the same grape that produces the elegant and long lasting dry Savenniere and luscious Coteaux du Layon in the Loire Valley.

Cooler Constantia still favours white wines just as it did two centuries ago when sweet Constantia wines ranked, in price and prestige, next to Hungarian Tokay at the courts of Europe. According to Jane Austin in « Sense and Sensibility » it was a fine cure for a broken heart.

Apart from its great natural beauty, the soil, exposure and micro-climate of Constantia contribute to making it one of the best regions in the Cape for growing grapes. Five estates produce some outstanding wines: Constantia Uitsig, Groot Constantia, Steenberg, Buitenverwachting and Klein Constantia. Constantia Uitsig‘s wines can be enjoyed in its excellent Restaurant « La Colombe », recently voted one of the best in South Africa.

Stellenbosch is the oldest wine-making region in South Africa after the Constantia Valley. The vineyards, within easy reach of the cooling winds from the sea, do not normally need irrigation. Close to the centre of Stellenbosch town, with views of the impressive Simonsberg mountain and surrounded by immaculate vineyards, l‘Avenir is ideally situated. As the name implies, the wine estate has a great future under the aegis of pharmacist turned winemaker, Francois Naude and sugar trader turned winery owner, Marc Wiehe.

To the north-west of Stellenbosch town in the Devon Valley, an Englishman originally named his estate Malvern Heights because the surrounding hills reminded him of his native Malvern region. Now called Clos Malvern, the property produces high quality wines.

A few miles away Kanonkop was one of the first estates to plant the indigenous Pinotage. The name Kanonkop derives from a « kopje » or small hill. In the days of the Dutch East India Company sightings of the Company‘s fleet were signalled by a cannon on a nearby hill so that farmers could go and sell fresh fruit and vegetables to the ships. The present winemaker, Beyers Truter, has proved beyond doubt that the Pinotage, when treated with due respect, can produce a red wine of superb quality, which could become South Africa‘s flagship.

Just a few kilometers to the south, you approach by a winding, shaded road one of the most beautiful ofthe Cape‘s traditional wineries : Rustenberg. The property dates back to 1682 and has bottled its wines continuously since 1892, a record thought unequalled by any other estate. The vineyards at altitudes ranging from 270 to 330 metres are planted mainly with Cabernet and Merlot. Of the farm‘s total production, some 70% is red wine. There is timeless and peaceful beauty on this 1000-hectares estate, which also includes a fruit farm and a dairy herd.

As you taste the wines of other properties in the Stellenbosch region, like Morgenhof, Louisvale, Neethlingshof, Verdun and Devon Crest to name a few, it becomes evident that site plays an important part in their success. Increasingly, the wine producers are concentrating on making full use of what the French call « terroir ». The selection of favourable soils and cooler sites, no doubt, contributes to improving the wine quality.

In fact, when I visited Morgenhof, its Frenchborn owner, Anne Cointreau-Huchon, had just addressed a group of local growers stressing the importance of « terroir ». This energetic business woman has brought Gallic professionalism to the 300-year-old estate that she bought in 1993. All but four of her 21 management staff consists of women, including the winemaker Rianie Strydom. The estate, includes a large octogonal underground maturation cellar, as well as a tasting room and vinotheque, combining classical French style, yet retaining a taste of the Cape. Morgenhof wines combine the best features of New and Old World wines and illustrate the direction that South Africa should be going.

Another advocate of « terroir » is Neil Ellis ; his search for quality led him to realise that it is essential to source the best grapes from the best vineyards for each varietal wine. Consequently, his Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc come from Elgin, the Cape‘s coolest region.

To the North East of Stellenbosch, flanked on three sides by spectacular mountains, lies the region of Franschoek where the Huguenots, who fled religious persecutions in France, settled more than three centuries ago. The French flavour has remained strong in this picturesque valley with names like Du Toit, Picardie, La Bourgogne and La Provence.

Just North of Franschoek, Paarl, a wine region second only to Stellenbosch in importance, hosts what is probably the most prestigious social event in South Africa: the Nederburg Wine Auction held every year since 1975. A top personality of the wine world, like Robert Mondavi from California or Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux, is invited to speak. In the early days of the Nederburg auctions, the wines were almost all white and sweet, often fortified, but nowadays they tend to be quality red wines.

The increasing international interest in South African wines has resulted in the establishment of wine competitions such as the Veritas Awards created in 1991 by the South African National Show Association. It gives an opportunity to the vinegrowers to compare their wines and catch up with the global wine scene by adopting new styles and techniques in order to develop wines of international class. At the moment, the wine sector of South Africa can compete on the world markets due to the very low value of its currency.

Visitors to South African winelands will discover one of the most exciting wine producing countries in the New World. Without doubt, The winds of change are blowing through South African vineyards.

Although visiting the wineries in their breathtaking surroundings can fill an entire visit, there are many other attractions such as museums, birdwatching, visiting the fascinating Cango Caves north of Oudtshoorn or a crocodile and cheetah ranch and, if you wish, test your agility trying to ride an ostrich.

In an area where fine wine is made, good food cannot be too far away. Don‘t miss the traditional South African meat dishes, like bobotie a baked mincedmeat dish from the Cape (see recipe). It is probably of Malay origin, with its additions of apricot, almond, chutney and a subtle spicing of curry. Bredie is a rich ragout, usually of mutton with a thick tomato sauce. Biltong, strips of dried meat, once made out of necessity, to carry on treks before the days of refrigeration. Now it is something of a delicacy and comes in many varieties, anything from impala to ostrich.

Bon appetit!

Bobotie is a traditional South African dish which I enjoyed on several occasions during my visit through the vineyards: 1 fairly thick slice crustless bread (white or brown), 375 ml milk, 25 ml oil, 10 ml butter, 2 sliced onions, 2 crushed cloves garlic, 25 ml curry powder, 10 ml salt, 25 ml chutney, 15 ml smooth apricot jam, 15 ml Worcester sauce, 5 ml turmeric, 25 ml brown vinegar, 1 kg raw mince, 100 ml sultanas, 3 eggs.

Soak bread in milk. Heat oil and butter in large pan and fry onions and garlic. When onions are soft, add curry powder, salt, chutney, jam, Worcester sauce, turmeric and vinegar and mix well. Drain and mash bread and milk. Add bread to pan together with mince and sultanas. Cook over low heat, stirring, and when meat loses its pinkness, remove from stove. Add 1 beaten egg, mix well, then spoon into a greased 28 x 16 cm baking dish and level the top.

Beat remaining eggs with milk (you should have 300 ml) and the salt and turmeric. Pour over meat mixture and put a few bay leaves on top. Stand dish in a larger pan of water (this is important to avoid drying out) and bake, uncovered, at 180 degree C. for 1 hour or until set. Serve with rice, coconut, chutney, nuts and bananas. Serves 8.

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